Arctic Lines Episode 9: Kåtotjåkka - Quest for the biggest line of the season

In the north we have a saying, ¨Summer in Lapland is cold and only slightly snowy¨.

This is very true, especially in the far northern part of the Arctic Circle such as Abisko, Sweden. For many years,

For many years I’ve enjoyed summer trips to this area. The snow has turned to corn and the day is 24hrs long. This is the time to enjoy long days and go for high mountain adventures.

So, for the final mission of the season, our crew decided it was time to take a chance and go camping near an amazing mountain - Kåtotjåkko. Our object - The beautiful and inviting north face of Kåtotjåkko

I was very happy that my friend, mountain guide Anders Bergwall from Arctic Guides joined the crew to share his knowledge because this face is a major line that requires a process of careful study and planning.

Enjoy!

ABOUT KÅTOTJÅKKA

Kåtotjåkko is an amazing mountain for touring.

It is the highest mountain in Mårma massif located approximately 30km from the village of Abisko.

During the busy spring season, many heliski operators work in the area but you can have a much richer outdoor experience by going camping in the area or at least climbing the mountain if you choose to do only a day trip. Either way, your options for reaching the mountain are the following; You can either tour from Abisko for 30km or organize transport for your preferred camping location.

This route description is made from the campsite which we used during our trip.

Start from the camp and head toward the east. Two gullies are coming down from the higher plateau. Choose the one furthest to the east and skin up. This is easy touring. Once you’ve reached the top of the gully, continue a bit until you see a lake. This is a good spot to take a break, use binoculars if you have them and scout the amazing object of your day, Kåtotjåkko North Face.

Continue touring over the lake, if you choose to attempt this late in the spring or summer, make sure the ice is strong enough. Otherwise, you can tour on the shore. Once you are on the other side of the lake start touring up the rolling open field. This field will ultimately take you to the start of the Goduglacier on the west side of Kåtotjåkka.

When you arrive at the plateau near the glacier you have a decision to make. Do you climb up the west face or continue touring to the coal in the far end of the west face.

Climbing the face can be an option if the snow is soft and stable. The face is avalanche terrain and you will feel exposed to it so conditions need to be stable. Climbing will take a lot of energy compared to a bit longer and mellower route that goes all the way around the west face but it will get you the ridge much easier. If you choose to use the mellow route you will have much more time to skin up towards the object.

Once you arrive at the northwest end of the ridge, you should start carrying your equipment and boot back the rest of the tour. Remember to use crampons and an ice axe. Some cornices need to be looked at but if you stay more on the west-facing side you should be fine. Continue the ridge once you are at the top of Kåtotjåkka west summit.

Here you will get to see the line clearly and this is also a good point to make decisions.

If you want to descent the line from the top, use the top ridge and walk to the east summit. This is the highest point of the mountain and this is where you want to start your descent! If everything looks good, go for it, This is spectacular descent!

The snow might be stuffing a bit so remember to navigate the route away from the sluff zones.

Once you are reaching the bottom of the line be aware of the bergschrund. There are crevasses in this area and you must know which route to choose to clear it safely.

When you are past the bergschrund make your way down a long and super nice mellower terrain this will take you back towards the lake on the bottom. This is a leg burner so take breaks if needed! Once you see the lake, take a high traverse back towards the gully you skinned up so you don’t have to walk.

Drop into the gully and enjoy some fun big turns. Traverse back towards the camp until you are at the bottom and tour the rest of the trip until you reach the camp.

Gear used during the adventure

We partnered up with Get Arctic rental services for the final adventure of the season.
This outdoor rental shop located in Rovaniemi, Finland was able to offer us a perfect setup for our camping needs and there was a lot we needed because when you go filming in the mountains for several days you need to go extra prepared.
Here is some of the important gear we were able to get from Get Arctic.

Helsport Varanger Tent

Goal Zero
Nomad 50 Solar Panels
Yeti 200x battery

Back up snow safety gear